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            欲望之城

            (文章来源: 【】    发布时间        浏览次数:  次)

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            赌场里的旧版人民币、“文革”式的军歌、昏暗的小商品市场、宾馆房间里的色情服务广告……小勐拉表面的一切都在塑造着一个低质的山寨中国,宛若我们20年前的破败小县城。而私宅大院里的几十部豪车、按部队番号划分的区块、矿山主人的私人娃娃兵军队、夜店年轻人随身携带的枪械,又让佤邦成为一个由权钱武装起来的军事化社会。别担心醉酒的人们会冲动交火,小勐拉的枪口向来一致对外,对向那个他们既承认又防备的祖国——缅甸。

            偷渡很容易,却穿越回了从前的中国“严禁非法出入境——打洛边境检查站宣”,几个大个儿白字印在红色的长条横幅上,反倒成了某种醒目的路标:往右,严格盘查车辆和证件的口岸大桥;往左,交钱进入的偷渡“口岸”。陈姐那辆思茅云J牌照的蒙迪欧,就是在这个“路标”前把我放下的。我刚想为自己即将到来的“非法行为”拍照以直播到微信朋友圈,前来做生意的摩托司机就勒令我快走,“这可不是随便挂着玩的,抓住了麻烦”。

            偷渡的工具就是重庆力帆生产的轰轰烈摩托车,价格便宜,也很危险。这是一款通用车型,不是运动款,其实不适用如此崎岖的山路。但是整个打洛镇都骑这一款,或者类似的车型。旅程其实不轻松。有时候,我们沿着悬崖颠簸。上坡路很陡,我好几次从座位上滑了下来。下坡时常常被颠起来,坐稳的时候不多。有时候路还算平坦,但几秒钟过后就是一段坑坑洼洼。李开得娴熟又小心,一路奔向缅甸。我不知道具体是哪一个时刻,我们离开了中国的疆界,但是没过多久,我们就遇到了穿着东掸邦军队制服的人。他们在检查站朝我们挥手,但他们没有检查护照。一样平常的过境划定规矩似乎其实不适用这里。持老式AK-47的小战士负责登记,算作口岸。再交上30元人民币,你就可以拿到一张戳有公章的“司法委缉毒大队专用发票”,算作“签证费”,回程时还得交还。陈姐家的另一部越野车在边防站接上了我,右舵右行,没过10分钟,掠过跨境大桥的正规口岸,破旧的楼房、脏兮兮的街道跟着闷热的空气扑面而来,小勐拉,东掸邦的首都到了。

            欲望之城



            欲望之城


            云南话、人民币、移动和联通的手机信号,确实是这个既属于缅甸、又独立于缅政府的“外国”所流通的语言、货币和通讯方式?梢远园肟臣鄣幕璋敌∩唐放⑹谐,光着膀子半躺在办公室长椅上打牌的工商管理局工作人员,川湘风味和河南板面,坏了几根二极管的夜店、慢摇吧、按摩店和KTV霓虹灯,顺着几座教堂、寺庙和“回族教堂”后的山路可以绕到山顶的城市唯一景点——中缅友谊大金塔……加上台球厅、网吧和游戏厅,无论怎么看,邦康都像极了多年前的中国边陲县城,而城里几乎所有的商品和生活物资,也都得从江对面另一座当代边陲县城——云南省打洛镇运送过来。


            欲望之城



            欲望之城



            欲望之城



            欲望之城


            边贸往来中,东掸邦又能给对岸的中国带来什么呢?

            早先无节制砍伐的原木,以及猎获的象牙、虎骨、穿山甲片,也纷纷成为被严格监控的违禁走私品,难以再明目张胆地过江过境。街上的珍奇药材店里,还陈列着各种野生动物骨骼、牙齿,但也仅供当地的政府官员、矿山主和胶林场主花大价钱消费。被磨成粉末的刺猬尖刺,倒是能躲过警犬的鼻子,作为某种可供止血去痛的药材,与过不了检验检疫的年迈水牛一道,被偷偷带入国境。因此,几乎只剩由171军区下属宏邦公司开采的珠宝玉石,成为鲜少能合法从掸邦流入中国的商品。

            欲望之城



            欲望之城


            闷热的天气并没能将蓬头垢面街道上的灰尘压住,大排量豪车时不时高速冲过,将路边的灰土卷起砸向电风扇吃力旋转的商铺里。我加快脚步,躲回陈姐家那套有着大院的三层别墅里避暑,佣人早已为赶长途归家的主人换好拖鞋,厨房准备好了劲辣可口的佤族野菜,一个男孩端着盛满缅甸米饭的金盆,安静地站在餐桌一侧,见谁碗里要空了就上前舀上一勺!袄次颐钦舛嫉P牡歉锶群团奔,预防最好的办法就是多吃油腻的东西!背陆愕木槠奈捞。

            欲望之城


            [文章来源:星空写作网 - http://www.kajpera.com/webHtml/20190410162421.html ]

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