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            仙台山的红叶

            (文章来源: 【】    发布时间        浏览次数:  次)

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            早在去年秋天,我的心里忽然燃起对红叶的向往。不知道是什么原因,不知道自己是喜欢红叶的灿烂,还是想体味秋的悲凉,反正就是特别特别想去看看秋天的红叶。然终日碌碌,慌慌乱乱,已经到十一月了,心里只是惦记。终于找了个周末,准备去仙台山看红叶。但天不作美,在去之前一天,西风大作,急雨忽至,怅怅然也十分无奈,只得放弃了。上班下班,路过几丛火炬树,就看一看,对自己说,山上也无非这样,没什么好看的。

            今年金秋,我对去年的遗憾不免耿耿。妻子也猜透了我的心思,极力丛恿,给予了许多的支持。日子还是那么的忙碌,事务还是那么繁多,但仙台之旅还是在今天成行了。

            由于一直没有看成红叶,对红叶的慕恋随着时间,分分累积,日渐炽盛;航獾耐揪毒褪窃谕峡纯赐计,读读诗文,聊解寂寥。但是,读着金代诗人周昂的“山林朝市两茫然,红叶黄花自一川”和唐代白居易的“红叶寒山十月旦,霜叶一时新。似烧非因火,如花不待春”时,心里有点惶惶;待看到网上美图里,红枫阵阵喧嚣,黄栌层层劲染,心里就憋不住的难受。待读到描写香山红叶的“断霞飞落千山,余晖尽染枫林醉。阳枝尚暖,阴枝已冷,丹黄朱翠。影曳流光,娇姿霜立,一怀秋味”的“水龙吟”时,心神黯然,不觉痴了。

            香山的红叶名气大,然据言不如仙台山的红叶面积广,气势恢宏。

            一大早,我和妻女在驱车奔袭百里后,就来到井陉辛庄的仙台山。初进山时,两旁是悬崖峭壁。公路在峡谷间盘旋。举目看时,山上偶有一棵泛红的小树,颜色艳丽突兀,像个招摇的孩子,又好像恬静的迎宾女。经过仙台山正门后,红叶才逐渐的多起来:路旁有簇簇拥拥的火炬树,山上是一丛丛黄栌。虽然路旁有龟石,明目泉,和舍身崖,我们也没顾上下车,而径直开往景区的红叶区。车到停车场,我们来到一片开阔的山前。放眼远眺,只见在迷雾濛濛的山间,“国家森林公园”几个大字在红红绿绿的树丛中闪灼着夺目的光辉。红叶好像一下子沸腾了,带着热情,扑面而来。像一个带着面纱的少女,见到情郎时,兴高采烈而急切地飞奔过来。

            初秋的早上,山上人很少,只有几个游客和景区的工作人员。然这并不妨碍我们登高望远,“一睹红颜”,品评秋味的兴致。薄雾冥冥,山野空旷,秋凉微微,在此时此刻,此情此景,我们一家高高兴兴攀峰逐日,登高临秋,也到别有一番意趣。游仙台,赏红叶有两条路线:停车场西行,去往原始森林,通往山谷,在峡谷中可近距离观看红叶;北行上山,可在山脊俯瞰美景。我们决定攀主峰,赏美景。简单补给了一下,向工作人员问了问路,我们背上行囊,出发了。

            清秋登高,家人同行,岂不乐哉?在欢畅淋漓的登山过程中,我不禁意兴横飞。山上尽管有雾,看似倒也有点“秋叶风吹黄飒飒,晴云日照白鳞鳞!钡囊饩。在我眼里,心里没有“登高何处见琼枝,白露黄花自绕篱。惟有楼中好山色,稻畦残水入秋池"的伤秋悲意。有的只是“平明登日观,举手开云关。精神四飞扬,如出天地间”的达观的喜悦。

            仙台山的植被颇有奇处:来时的甬路把山一分为二,南山坡上种满松树,北坡种满柏树,是为一景,叫“南松北柏”。在我们爬山的石阶旁,到处是颇有岁月的古柏。树身灰白,柏枝苍翠,煞是好看。石阶宛转迂回,通向山顶。我们一气爬了数百石级,在山腰一个平台停下小憩。喘息未定,就听见孩子感叹:“好漂亮!”我从平台望向南山坡,松树跑到了山脚,或者不知道去什么地方了。静静望去,整个山坡有翠绿,浅黄,赭绿,橘红,大红各色的树木,俨然变成了巨幅色彩艳丽的油画。再往远处看,几座山峰在薄雾中若隐若现,山上也到处是色彩斑斓的秋树,又像是中国画里的写意,氤氤氲氲,虚虚实实。目光向两边,山坡不是平的,沟壑崎岖,峰岩峭壁,更让红叶的画布浓淡相宜,疏离有致。仙台山的红叶,的确美得恢弘,悠远,让人忘言。

            拍了几张照片后,我们接着往上爬。这时,随行的另外一家人,跟了上来。他们一行五人,两家姑舅亲戚,其中一家带一个与我女儿年龄相仿的小女孩。我们大人边走边说,对比着仙台山与香山的红叶。两个孩子则暗暗的开始了登山比赛,你不让我,我不让你,居然把我们拉了一大截儿。女儿生性活泼好动,想和小女孩交谈,但好几次尝试都失败了。小女孩矜持内敛,少言寡语,只是一味的快走,想把女儿落下。我们就在远处叫嚷,斥责,让她俩注意安全,慢点。在他们眼里,秋景是无味的,相较红叶,她们应该更喜欢鲜花吧,我想。

            大概爬了一千两百级石阶后,我们登上了仙台山侧峰的山脊!扒嗌角,青山后,登高望两处,两处今何有”?“烟景满川原”倒是不假,“离人堪白首”却没有沾边。远古时代,经济水平低下,交通条件恶劣,亲人一别或许就白首相聚了。这在今天似乎成了天方夜谭。从这个意义上看,今人好像比古人要更幸福的。但是,转念一想,古人虽然生活简朴,但尚能亲近自然,并写出“登高临旧国,怀古对穷秋。落日鸿雁度,寒城砧杵愁”的诗句。今天的人呢,有几个有闲情逸致登高望远?或者谁又愿意“牺牲”时间亲近自然呢?即便有很多人在黄金周出游,他们游得得有多么狼狈,游得得有多么“痛苦”呢???在石阶之后,山脊的路变成了碎石土路。偶尔有些地方,路很窄,若非两旁有栏杆,人真还不敢经过。站在这样的小路上,向四周远眺,只见白色的崖石在雾中若隐若现。崖石下方则是绵延无尽的形形色色的红叶。仙台山的红叶多为黄栌树,树都不大,不如参天遮日的枫树,但胜在量多,漫山遍野,无穷无尽。站在高处,正好看见树叶着色的一面。橘红像火,金黄如霞,暗红似铁,大红宛花。。。。。。各种鲜艳,明丽,热热闹闹,熙熙攘攘。让人没觉得是西风飒飒,寒气萧萧的秋天,倒觉得是生机盎然,万物复苏的春天一样!看着如此景致,我心里不禁宛然,突然想对着山谷的红叶喊上几句。寂静的山谷回响着我的叫声,断断续续,不辨东西。我的举动吸引了两个孩子的注意,她们忘了刚才的追逐,也跑过来,和我一起对着山谷呼唤。孩子们,让我们一起为红叶喝彩!红红的红叶,你在万物萧瑟的秋,壮美地盛开,你是好样的!

            再往前走,不知不觉发现我们走进了黄栌树丛中。两旁的柏树不见了,取而代之的是或大或小,或高或低的黄栌树;畦邮鞴诨朐,树姿优美。特别是深秋叶片经霜变红时,色彩鲜艳、美丽壮观,绚烂夺目。为什么黄栌树的树叶会变红?我查了一下:黄栌树叶里除含有叶绿素外,还含有黄色的叶黄素或能显出红色的花青素。春天及夏季由于天气暖和,叶绿素大量生成,其它色素很少,所以黄栌叶片为绿色;入秋之后随着气温逐渐下降,叶绿素不断减少,到天冷时不再生成,并在阳光下发生分解。这时,其它的色素就显露出来,于是含有叶黄素的叶片就变黄了,含有花青素的叶片就变红了;ㄇ嗨卦谖露鹊褪狈炊菀仔纬,所以深秋时含有花青素的黄栌叶会变得一片火红。走近仔细观看黄栌树叶,其形颇像苹果树叶。正面火红,背面却是银白或呈浅褐色。联系前引描写香山红叶的诗句“阳枝尚暖,阴枝已冷”,树尤其是深秋山林里的黄栌是知冷知热的。当年陈毅元帅吟咏“西山红叶好,露重色欲浓”绝对不只是修辞中使用拟人,红叶在秋深露重中表现出来某种类人的特点,今天我看绝对是有生物学根据的。过去经常讲借物言志,睹物思人。其实,树木乃至整个自然,有太多值得我们人类学习的地方。

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